Nikko & Lake Chuzenji Trip

As the Autumn leaves began to change colors, the perfect time had come to visit Nikko. Located near the mountains 2 hours north of Tokyo (by train), Nikko is one of Japan's favorite places to visit during the Fall before it gets too cold in the winter months. Looking through my travel books, they strongly recommended a visit to see Nikko's famous historical sights and natural beauty. It wouldn't disappoint...

After a week of minor planning, we jumped on an early train during a clear Saturday morning. Being one of the first to get on, I was lucky enough to have seats for the whole ride, but after making a few stops the way up, the train car became stuffed with people standing on-top of one another. Eventually, I made it up to the station and the difference in temperature was noticeable immediately.

Nikko Station

The area all around the station was very crowded and I think we picked the weekend that almost everyone else did to come visit Nikko. Due to the large crowds, many of the inns and hotels were full so we had to settle for one that was separated from both central Nikko and also the historical region. But you take what you can get and after a quick check in, I set out to visit the shrines & POIs. The path to Nikko's most famous spot - Toshogu Shrine - begins near the river with the picturesque Shinkyoo bridge.

Nikko is home to the burial shrines of both Tokugawa Ieyasu (Toshogu Shrine) and Tokugawa Iemitsu (Taiyu-in Shrine). Ieyasu was Japan's first Shogun and founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Under his leadership, Japan entered its golden age of Samurai during a time that would be known as Edo Period. His grandson Iemitsu was the third shogun of Japan and is notable for two things: 1) for constructing the lavish shrine for his grandfather at Nikko (which we visited) and 2) Cutting off Japan's trade with foreign countries in 1635. This led to a period of isolation up until Matthew Perry came in 1854 and the rest is history...

Before reaching Toshogu I stopped off to look at the garden of Rinno-ji, a Buddhist temple built in 766.

Rinno-ji

After getting a taste of Nikko's natural beauty, it was time to see the real deal - Toshogu! To build it they claim that 15,000 craftsman worked for two years, using 2.5 million sheets of gold leaf. It's good to be a king huh... Near the entrance was a 5 story pagoda and up the first steps you entered the outer grounds where a number of elaborate warehouses were constructed. In addition, just past the entry gates is the Sacred Stable where they used to keep a horse sent as a gift from New Zealand.

5 story pagoda

Warehouse

Sacred Stable

As you can see on the Sacred Stable they have a series of wood carvings depicting monkeys in a number of situations. These carvings are actually a pictoral maxim with each one offering advice on how to life a proper life. The most famous is referred to as the '3 wise monkeys' which warn viewers to "hear no evil, speak no evil, and see no evil" (which you can see them covering corresponding body parts)

Moving along, I entered the inner sanctum after walking through another set of gates. On the way, I made sure to snap a few photos of the intricately crafted decorations in the woodwork and the elaborate bell towers.

bell tower
Tokugawa family crest

Besides the 3 wise monkey carvings, Toshogu shrine is also well-known for the "sleeping cat." This woodcarving is located at the entrance to the final path up to the burial spot of Ieyasu and the cat itself is a symbol that the in-fighting Japan had experienced was at an end and they were looking forward to a peaceful period.


After the cat, a narrow path led up the final resting place of Japan's first shogun. With so many people there at the time, the line bottlenecked and it took around 30 minutes of waiting to reach the site.

Tokugawa Ieyasu's tomb

The final attraction of Toshugu was the shrine of the crying dragon. A separate building in the inner grounds to the complex, the shrine was carefully designed to create a distinct clashing echo when priests would hit wooden sticks together in one section of the shrine. To demonstrate the effect, a priest hit the sticks a few feet away from the proper area with no special effect, he then moved to the spot and everyone could hear the trademark 'crying dragon' echo.

Crying Dragon Ceiling

A short 10 minute walk northwest led us to the entrance of the Taiyuin shrine. Although not as well known or ornamentally decorated, Iemitsu's shrine is noted as having superior artistic value.

Taiyuin Shrine

There were much less people visiting Taiyuin and it helped to create a more peaceful impression upon me. Surrounded by trees the shrine had tremendous natural as well as man-made beauty - well worth the visit.



To finish off the first day in Nikko, I walked over to the Nikko Green Hotel to use their hot-spring (onsen) facilities. It was really refreshing after a day of walking non-stop and adapting to the colder weather.

Finally, I retreated back to our distant hotel and had one of the most peaceful sleeps I've had in a long time, despite the fact I was sleeping on a futon laid out over the hard floor.

the hotel room

The next day I got up bright and early in preparation for the bus ride over to Lake Chuzenji. Guidebooks advertised the locale as a short 40 minute ride through the mountains to view the beautiful Keegon Falls (Japan's version of the Niagara Falls) as well as the lake itself. For me it wasn't the case, gridlock ensued and we were stuck on the bus ride over for 2 1/2 hours. By the time the bus reached Lake Chuzenji, I only had enough time to look around for 3 hours.

view of the mountain from the bus

I went to the Keegon Falls first and snapped some photos like the rest of the people there. The sound of the waves hitting the rocks below was very soothing, yet the breeze coming from the nearby lake as well as the altitude we were at created near freezing conditions.

Keegon Falls

The trip came to a close after a short tour of the lake followed by a strawberry crepe near the station. In conclusion, while Kyoto may be everyone's favorite side trip from Tokyo, Nikko is number 1 for its natural beauty and well a weekend trip, especially during the fall.

Lake Chuzenji